For 1984, Nissan would unveil the new 300ZX, a car using much of the outgoing 280ZX chassis and overall architecture, but sporting an all-new 3.0L V-6 engine. This was a bold departure from the inline six traditionally used in the Z Car since its debut in 1969, but allowed for better packaging, smoother idling, higher efficiency, and a host of other benefits, according to Nissan.
Known as the Z31 to insiders, the new 300ZX featured sharply angled edges, and chiseled corners all tempered by subtle and softly sloping gradients. The result was a car that absolutely epitomized 1980s car design – slightly boxy with a degree of arch. It was hugely popular and the limited edition Shiro 300ZX of 1988 would prove to be one of the quickest and fastest production cars available, sprinting from 0-60 in just over 5-seconds and topping out at 153 MPH, according to Car and Driver magazine. By 1989, the Z31 was aging nicely, but there was more to be had from that engine. And more modern styling to be delivered. It would come in the form of the all-new 300ZX of 1990.
Known as the Z32, the chassis and body and interior were completely revised, but the engine and transmission remained largely the same – only now it sported four overhead cams, 24 valves and variable valve timing, which gave the normally aspirated versions 222 HP – roughly 50 more HP than the Z31. Instead of offering with a single turbo, Nissan packed in two turbos and two intercoolers, creating an even 300 HP – Corvette wouldn’t get 300 HP until 1992, delivering 250 until then. And the Z cost quite a bit less than a Corvette and offered easier ingress-egress.
Is the Z32 300ZX fast?
Yes – indeed, the Nissan 300ZX, in either twin turbo or normally aspirated variants, could be considered quick and fast. They ran from 0-60 in 5- or 6-seconds, and had an electronically limited top speed of 155 MPH. Even the normally aspirated Z would top out around 140 MPH. On top of that, the Z could handle like a slot car, able to hold the road like few others. Magazines of the day praised the Z32 for its predicable handling and overall poised demeanor, a car that could get out of hand, but simply didn’t without a lot of encouragement.
Is the Z32 300ZX a good collector’s car?
It’s coming of age, for sure. At the moment, the 240Z and 280ZX seem to dominate the market, with collectors paying premiums for either in exceptional condition. However, aside from the special edition Z31s (there were only two, the 50th Anniversary Edition of 1984 and the Shiro edition of 1988), the Z32 seems to be the stronger bet when it comes to collectability.
Because of their higher original sticker prices and polarizing styling, fewer were built overall. On top of that, the amount of engineering that was bestowed over the Z32 was exemplary, and it boasted styling and a number of luxurious features to remind people that it was indeed an absolutely premium, borderline exotic car.
While the obvious choice for collectors is the twin turbo, there’s nothing wrong with the simplicity of the normally aspirated Z. They move very well and require a little less maintenance and are less likely to attract unwanted attention. Second to the twin turbo search though would be the Z32 convertible. Produced by American Sunroof Corporation (ASC), the convertibles were all of the two-seat variety and none were offered as twin turbos. Which we think is a crying shame. But, for whatever reason, that’s the way it was. But, that said, finding a Z32 ’vert with a manual transmission might prove exquisitely fabulous. After all – open top motoring in a car that seems almost psychic when it comes to knowing what you want to do can’t be bad.
At the Earl’s Court Motor Show of 1952, Triumph showed the first iteration of the TR2. It was a popular attraction, and the company felt it would succeed very well in the United States. Once production commenced in August of 1953, most of them were sent to North America. Costing roughly $2,500, TR2 sold very well, with several of them being entered into Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) events. By the time production ceased in September of 1955, 8,636 had been built.
The TR3 took the baton from the TR2 with refreshed styling and brought with it several improvements over the TR2. Horsepower increased, thanks to larger SU carburetors; later, another bump would occur with the new “high-port head,” and revised manifold. The 4-speed manual transmission could be opted with an electrically-engaged overdrive, and by 1956, disc brakes would replace drums, a first for a British production car. Interestingly, despite certain handling idiosyncrasies, the basic chassis would soldier on from the TR2 through the TR4.
For 1957, the TR3A was introduced, although the nomenclature of the “A” is normally used only by enthusiasts. The “A” denoted revised styling and convenience features like exterior door handles and a lockable trunk, as well as bigger tires, which, with the new disc brakes, made the TR an exceptional handler for the day, despite certain characteristics. Roughly 58,000 were built by the time the TR3A ceased production and the TR3B was ushered in, again, the “B” never an official part of the model’s name.
What is the Triumph TR4?
The Triumph TR4 is the first major evolution of the original TR. Introduced in 1961, it was styled by Giovanni Michelotti and ushered the TR into a very modern realm of styling, with an almost perfectly flat beltline, a gently sloping hood with raised arches to accommodate the headlights, and more. It looked almost nothing like the outgoing TR and would span through 1976 with a multitude of changes.
What changes did the TR4 have?
The TR4 sustained use of the inline 4-cylinder engine seen in the earlier TRs, but increased displacement to 2138cc with either two Zenith-Stromberg or two SU carburetors, depending on who was selling carburetors to the factory. For customers wanting to race in the under 2-Liter class, Triumph continued to offer the original 1995cc 4-cylinder engine.
The chassis was almost unchanged; however, the TR4 benefited from rack-and-pinion steering, revised suspension geometry, larger front brake calipers, a live rear axle with semi-elliptical springs, and lever-arm dampers. The larger tires and wheels provided better grip and, along with the suspension revisions, improved the overall ride, something many owners had long complained about TR.
An exceptional step up from the original TR formula, the TR4 sold over 40,000 units in 5-years, and a batch of them were used by police departments in England as “Fast Pursuit Cars,” further building on their image of performance and durability.
What is the TR4A?
Introduced in 1965, the TR4A built on the chassis of the TR4 with an independent rear suspension, and wider front and rear wheel tracks. The idea was to improve both ride and handling, but many critics of the day declared the work to have improved the ride, but created unpredictable handling characteristics. A number of owners reverted their TR4As back to a live rear axle package, forgoing the supple ride in favor of better handling. Outside of some minor trim and design changes, the TR4 and TR4A are very, very similar.
What is the difference between the TR4A and the TR5?
Simply put, the TR5 brought a 2.5L inline 6-cylinder engine to the TR program, giving it a major boost in performance and panache – after all, everyone wants a 6-cylinder, right? It was good for 150 HP when it was equipped with the Lucas fuel injection system, or 106 HP with the twin carburetors. The North American market would receive the TR250, made only with the carburetors to meet US emissions and efficiency regulations, while Europe and the Rest of the World (ROW) cars would get the fuel injected engine.
Produced only from August of 1967 to September of 1968, the TR5/TR250 enjoyed only a short run, but showed the world what Triumph was up to in terms of providing performance for a wider audience of people through respectable prices. Case in point, the Porsche 911 of 1968 produced 158 HP, yet cost a bit more than double that of the TR5/TR250. The TR5/TR250 was available with a number of options like wire wheels, an overdrive transmission, a tonneau cover, a removable hardtop, and even air conditioning, all furthering the upscale image of the TR.
By the time production ended, Triumph had produced just over 8,000 TR250s, but less than 3,000 TR5s in the same time span.
Continuing reading more about the TR6 through TR8 models here. {part 3 of 3}
There’s a lot of things to consider when buying a car online. With so many listings that can yield from a single search, sometimes you’re lucky and the car might be within traveling distance, but in most cases, the car is not. Many have asked me about how I go about searching for, verifying details, and deciding on which cars that I will pursue. I’ve prepared a guide based on my personal experiences to answer this.
When I am looking to purchase a vehicle online the key checkpoints in my process:
Vehicle Listing:
Detailed Descriptions: Listings with comprehensive details about the vehicle’s history, condition, features, and any modifications are very important. Lack of information might lead to a “no.” If the description says that the vehicle is 100% perfect or all original, I would be skeptical (Vehicles are only all original once and most vehicles are not completely perfect). Imperfections pointed out by the seller tells me they are honestly representing what they are selling, and I know what I am purchasing.
High-Quality Images: Clear, high-resolution photos from various angles (interior and exterior) help buyers make a quick judgment. Poor-quality images or lack of photos often result in a “maybe” or “no.” In my years of doing several restorations, the body, frame, paint, and pans are most important to see in detailed photos. These parts are the most time consuming and expensive to replace or repair. Other details about the vehicle are also important but things like interior, weatherstripping, and tires are easily replaceable.
Vehicle History Report: A detailed vehicle history report, including accident history, ownership history, and service records, can influence a “yes.” Keep in mind this is only available on vehicles 1981 or later.
Verifying the Vehicle’s Details:
In Person Inspection: When possible, I like to do a personal inspection of the vehicle. In a lot of situations this is not an option because of time, distance, and other life commitments. If I have a trusted relative, friend, or colleague who is in the vicinity of the car, I may reach out to ask them to help me do an inspection.
Facetime Video: See if the seller will take a few minutes to do a Facetime video call to address any areas of concern. If the seller is willing to do a video call, this is a positive sign that the seller is being transparent.
Local Car Shop: Find a local reputable car shop and see if the seller will take the vehicle there for an inspection.
Price Evaluation:
Competitive Pricing: I compare prices across different platforms. If a vehicle is priced too high compared to similar listings, it may result in a “no.” Fair or slightly negotiable pricing can turn a “maybe” into a “yes.” I use platforms like Hagerty valuation, Kelly Blue Book, and CARFAX to compare pricing. If the seller has an appraisal done on the car, this is also helpful.
Price Transparency: Clear explanations of the pricing, including any fees, taxes, or additional costs, are crucial. Hidden costs can lead to a “no.”
Seller Communication:
Response Time: A prompt and professional response from the seller can significantly impact my decision. Delayed or unprofessional communication might result in a “maybe” or “no.” In my past dealings, I have sent clear and concise questions to the seller to get more insight or history on the vehicle in question. Honest sellers will answer every question that is presented in the first communication. Other sellers will only answer certain questions, and it takes four or five times of back and forth to have my questions answered. When this happens, my interest level diminishes drastically because it seems the seller is not being honest or does not truly know what they are selling.
Test Drive: Offering the option for a test drive or vehicle inspection can sway me towards a “yes.” If a test drive is not possible, ask for a video of the vehicle being driven, both from an exterior view and from inside the vehicle. Ask for a cold start video (make sure to ask that the video includes the temperature gauge at start-up) and a walk around video with the vehicle running.
Decision-Making Factors:
Condition of the Vehicle: The overall condition, including engine performance, exterior, and interior, plays a major role. Any signs of major repairs or issues can lead to a “no.” Make sure you know your intentions of buying the vehicle. If you plan on doing some light restoration or a full blown one, this will dictate the price you are willing to pay. A lot of buyers want a turnkey vehicle, which means they just want to turn the key and drive it. They are not interested in doing any kind of work or paying someone to do the work.
Trust in the Seller: If the seller is perceived as trustworthy and has positive reviews, buyers are more likely to say “yes.” If this is a first-time seller with no reviews, their willingness to provide more information, documentation, videos, and additional pictures tells me they are being honest, transparent, and trustworthy in what they are selling.
Ease of Transaction: Simple, secure payment options and clear transfer of ownership processes contribute to a “yes.” A secure payment would include wire transfer or bank check, that once verified that the funds are in your bank account, you can then conclude the transaction. A non-refundable deposit is always a good step for holding a vehicle. This keeps the buyer honest in completing the transaction because they know if they do not, they have lost their money.
Final Decision:
Yes: The car meets all my needs or wants, is priced fairly, and the seller is trustworthy.
Maybe: There are a few uncertainties, such as price, condition, or lack of information, but I am still interested. I will likely continue to communicate with the seller to see if I learn enough to sway me to a “yes.”
No: The car is overpriced, has issues, or the seller is not trustworthy.
The Triumph TR line of cars largely put Triumph on the map and saved the company by making it a more valuable property than it ever had been. Triumph Motorcars originated as the Triumph Cycle Company when Siegfried Bettmann relocated to Coventry, England to begin selling European-sourced bicycles. Three years later, with a partner, the company began building their own Triumph bicycles, and in 1902, they’d dropped a motor onto the frame to make their first motorcycle. World War I proved to be a huge boost for the company, with over 50,000 “Trusty Triumphs” used by Allied Forces, namely the Model H Roadster, which is often credited as being the first modern motorcycle.
Purchasing the Dawson Car Company in 1921, Triumph expanded into the motorcar manufacturing business and founded the Triumph Motorcar Company in 1930. By 1936, motorcar and motorcycle manufacturing were separated, and by 1937, in-house design engineer, Donald Healey, was designing Triumph’s very own engine for the cars. Like Dawson, Triumph became known for producing high-end vehicles with spirit and a sporting character, which led to financial troubles like what Dawson experienced. By the late 1930s, Triumph in all its forms was in difficulty, something the onset of World War II exacerbated.
Through receivership and new ownerships aplenty, both the motorcycle and motorcar companies would go on through the years, each building on their strengths and the market interests. By the end of World War II, it seemed everyone, especially American G.I.s returning to the USA, wanted a sportscar, and Triumph was going to oblige, tapping into the very lucrative market. While the TR was not exactly the company’s first sportscar, it was the one in which Triumph bestowed a lot of effort and became a hit with the sportscar world.
What does TR stand for?
Wanting to compete in sportscar events, Sir John Black, chairman of the Standard Motor Car Company, which owned Triumph Motor Car Company, tried but failed to acquire the Morgan Motor Company. So, instead, he turned to his own people at Triumph to produce a sporting car.
The Triumph Roadster Experimental, or TR-X, a prototype, evolved into the 20TS production car, which was unveiled at the 1952 London Motor Show. Triumph hired Ken Richardson, a development engineer and test driver for British Racing Motors, or BRM, to test drive and assess the 20TS. A seasoned racing veteran with a lengthy succession of races to his credit, he proclaimed the 20TS to be, “the most awful car I’ve ever driven in my life, it’s a bloody death trap.” With this, Triumph took him in even closer to help develop a proper sporting Triumph Roadster, ultimately becoming the TR2.
Is the Triumph TR a fast car?
Taking to the Jabbeke Highway in Belgium, Richardson drove a TR2 with a slightly streamlined body and an unmodified engine to a top speed of 124.889 MPH, proving that it was one of the fastest production cars in the world for 1952. In fact, despite the TR2’s smaller 4-cylinder engine, it proved to be as fast as the Healey 100 and returned better fuel economy at roughly 32 MPG. That record-setting TR2 still exists today.
For 1953, Triumph would introduce the TR2 to the world, and in 1954, Maurice Gatsonides and Ken Richardson would drive a TR2 in the Mille Miglia, finishing 27th overall – Richardson and TR2s would compete in many other events, including LeMans, the Alpine Rally, and the Tourist Trophy at Northern Island, finishing very nicely. This streak would continue with the updated TR3, TRS, and TR3S in subsequent years. So, was the TR a fast car? Yes, and it proved to be a very robust car in motorsports events, earning it respect around the world.
Read more about the differences in the TR models here. {part 2 of 3}
Vehicle manufacturers apply a clear coat to paints to achieve extra depth, color, and gloss. They look terrific, creating a finish that really “pops” when it’s properly cleaned. To maintain that “pop,” clear coats require very special care.
Clear Coated Paints are not Magic:
Many of the car waxes on the market today can damage clear coat finishes because most commercial products are still made for the way cars used to be painted, with a very thick (18-26 mil) paint applied directly to the surface of the car. Exposed to the atmosphere without a clear coat, this ‘One-Stage’ paint needed strong solvents or abrasives in the wax to remove oxidation, soiling, and stains.
But most cars built after 1990 have a thin layer (6-7mil) of basic color paint, which is covered by an even thinner (1-1.5mil) clear coat finish. This ‘two-stage’ paint is easily damaged (scratched) from the abrasives in ordinary commercial waxes. After spending many hours waxing your car you may have “swirl marks” or “cob-webbing.” These are nothing more than patterns of tiny scratches. Some waxes claim to be made for clear coated paint, but they leave a film or residue when dry that is hard to rub off, and, rubbing harshly will definitely do more damage.
Unfortunately, the world’s finest waxes will not produce a brilliant shine or lasting protection if applied over dull, oxidized, soiled paint or old wax. Normal washing will not remove oxidized paint, minor swirl marks, old wax, insect tar, acid rain, and catalytic converter residue (hydrochloric and sulfuric acids). Proper Pre-Wax Cleaning or using a Cleaner Wax is necessary to remove these impregnated contaminants and provide a fresh, clean surface to which the wax can adhere.
The difficulty is how to clean the paint safely without using abrasive grit, harsh solvents or destructive Clay Bars. Typical cleaner wax products “scrub” the surface clean with petroleum solvents and compounds, which can accelerate paint oxidation and aging. But, the finish MUST be cleaned BEFORE it is waxed.
If you adhere to the basic following steps, you can almost guarantee success.
Step 1: Wash
Before waxing your car, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS wash it thoroughly. Any dirt or grit that is on your car’s surface will scratch the paint that you are trying to protect. We recommend non-acidic, non-phosphoric, low, or no sodium-based liquid car washes that claim to do nothing but wash. Be on your guard against multi-function products, there is no replacement for common sense and lots of warm water.
Step 2: Cleanse
Between the washing and waxing, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS clean it thoroughly. All painted surfaces should be cleaned with a non-abrasive, safe pre-wax cleaner prior to applying wax. Quality pre-wax cleaners will have natural astringent properties to penetrate and extract trapped dirt, impurities, and dead, oxidized paint adhering to the surface. As you apply the pre-wax cleaner, it will penetrate and break down everything on the surface of the paint, encapsulating grime so it can be easily wiped off without scratching the clear coat. Minor swirl marks and scratches are visually reduced by removing the leading “edge” of the dead paint surrounding the scratch. The oils will also attach to the released deposits and allow these deposits to be wiped off using a simple terry towel or a Microwipe.
Step 3: Wax
Now that you have completely cleaned your paint’s surface, revealing paint with life and luster, follow with a coat of high quality, natural wax to protect and shield the paint. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use a non-abrasive, naturally-derived wax.
For maximum paint protection and shine, clean your paint twice a year (seasonal and geographic adjustments required) and apply a maintenance coat of wax every one to two months. Remember, wax degradation cannot be seen. When we think our cars are crying out for attention, we are seeing new paint damage.
The real mistake made by most enthusiasts is thinking that waxing is enough. Pre-wax cleaning is the difference between a good-looking car and a great-looking automobile.
Until next time…this enthusiast-writer is going to go out to wash and clean his car, apply my wax or Cleaner Wax and celebrate the Spring!
I recently took a trip to visit Pioneer Village in Minden, Nebraska. This is a significant historical museum that offers visitors a glimpse into the past, showcasing the evolution of American life over the centuries. I found it quite fascinating and here’s some information that might even get you interested to go take a visit.
The History of the Pioneer Village Museum
Founded by Harold Warp, a businessman and philanthropist, Pioneer Village opened its doors on June 6, 1953. Warp, who was born in 1903 in a sod house near Minden, went on to become a successful industrialist and is best known for inventing Flex-O-Glass. He used his wealth to build and create Pioneer Village as a way to give back to his community and to preserve American history. The vision for the museum was to illustrate the progress of civilization with a focus on technological advancements that had taken place over the previous century.
Collections and Exhibits
Pioneer Village features an extensive collection that houses over 50,000 historical items. It is one of the most comprehensive collections in Americana. The exhibits cover transportation, agriculture, household items, and industry.
Some details on their main attractions:
Transportation: A collection of antique cars, airplanes, and other forms of transportation, illustrating the evolution from horse-drawn buggies to modern automobiles, and aircraft.
Agriculture: Numerous exhibits detailing the history of farming and agriculture with a focus on antique tractors, plows, and other farming equipment.
Everyday Life: Exhibits about domestic life, with displays of household items, clothing, and appliances from various eras.
Authentic Buildings
The museum complex includes 28 buildings, many of which are authentic historical structures that have been relocated to the site. These buildings help create an immersive experience, allowing visitors to step back in time and see how people lived and worked in different periods of American history.
Impact and Legacy
The Pioneer Village has become an important educational resource over the years as it attracts visitors from around the world. With its extensive collections and exhibits, visitors see a tangible link to the past, helping people understand and appreciate the progress and challenges of earlier generations.
The museum is also vital to the local community as it hosts events, educational programs, and activities that engage all generations. The center continues to work on preserving and expanding collections, ensuring that future generations can continue to learn from and enjoy these historical treasures.
Modern Developments
Pioneer Village continues to update and maintain their exhibits to ensure they remain relevant and informative. Incorporating modern technology such as digitizing collections is one effort that the museum is making.
Visitors can find guided tour opportunities and immerse themselves in interactive exhibits and educational programs. When participating in the tour, history comes alive.
How to Visit Pioneer Village Check out their current events by visiting them here.
The C3 could be a finicky car, especially in the latter part of the 1970s through the end of days in 1982. However, if they are properly maintained and sorted, even the later C3s could prove to be a fine, fun car. While some are cringing at our claim that both the C3 and C4 represented some of the finest moments in Corvette history, we offer Exhibit A, the oft overlooked LT1 Corvette.
So many C3 buyers go straight to the big block 427 and 454 CI V-8s, and there is nothing dumb about that. But there is no shame in a standard-issue 350 CI small block V-8, and there is absolute magic in the 1970-1972 350 CI LT1 V-8. The most powerful of the Corvette small blocks at the time, the LT1 churned out a whopping 370 HP in 1970 and was a specially-made engine with various modifications adding not only power, but durability. As with all engines of the day, the 1971 and 1972 LT1s would tout less power, 330 (the 454 boasted 365 HP the same year) and 255 respectably; but, 1972 would allow LT1s to be optioned with air conditioning, a feature formerly unavailable. The LT1 Corvettes offered absolutely spectacular performance, and thanks to the lighter engine out front, they were often considered much more enjoyable to drive and much easier to handle in curves and corners, the weight of the big blocks often causing them to ‘plow’ forward rather than hold onto the turns.
In terms of the big block C3s, expect to pay premiums to acquire them. They have long commanded huge respect on the market and deliver gobs of power equating earth-shattering performance. But again, keep in mind, they tend to have a heavier driving feel than a small block, they tend to require a bit more driving skill to keep on the road when driving them aggressively. And make no mistake, in spite of what Cobra owners will say, the big block Corvette is a tremendous contender against the world’s finest performance cars.
For 1978, Corvette ushered in a revised body style with a new glass back rear end treatment which required a great deal of unseen reengineering in the rear suspension and exhaust area. Interior room was greatly increased, and the car gained an almost spacey style. By this point though, the engine choices were limited to 350 CI V-8s, and for 1980, California emissions regulations would cause Chevrolet to offer only a 180 HP 5.0L V-8 in that state. It was indeed a bleak time for performance, but Corvette gained an aerodynamic package which aided in downforce and directed air to the radiator to keep things cooler. In this regard, handling greatly improved. For 1982, the Cross-Fire Injection system would be installed on the Corvette providing a kind of hybrid carburetor-fuel injection intake, which was said to increase power, efficiency, and enhance emissions cleanliness. Many lamented the system for a number of reasons, most notably that it was seemingly difficult to service, since it was largely sealed. But, truth be told, the system didn’t normally need servicing or adjusting, and if it did, troubles could largely be placed at the feet of the computer module that controlled it.
C3 Corvette Parts
One of the beautiful things about most any Corvette, especially the C3, is parts availability. There are any number of vendors and service companies available across the country who have multitudes of parts ranging from engine parts to specialized bits like the Crossfire Injection System to body parts and much, much more. Even the interior parts and upholstery are largely available. They are not normally inexpensive, but still excruciatingly less costly than parts for many other world class sportscars.
C3 Corvette Restoration
If you’re not the type of person who wants to do it themselves, rest assured, there are a number of very skilled and knowledgeable shops around that specialize in Corvette restoration. Just keep in mind what you want to do with the car when you’re done – preserve and show it, or drive it once in a while, or drive it daily. This will help you and your chosen shop decide how best to restore your Corvette.
C3 Corvette Restoration Shops
It’s easy to get caught up with disreputable shops and sales people. The best advice we’ve come across is to get involved with the local clubs, and talk to members about who they’ve used with success and who to avoid. This can work the same way with parts vendors as well – find out from people who’ve dealt with vendors before and find out who’s worth the time and money.
What’s the story behind your first car? How did you get it? How long did you have it? When did you part ways with it? Why? We can all probably answer these questions with clarity. As we recall the past, we remember the highs and the lows and all the fun times in between with our first car.
Everyone has a story. Here’s mine, about my first vehicle ever, a 1979 Ford F250.
The F250 didn’t start out as mine. In fact, my father bought this truck new for his construction business, and it served as his daily driver until 1984. The truck came stock with a 400 CI engine and a 4-speed transmission, manual windows, and no air conditioning. Beyond its work duties, it also carted my family around town, at times up to seven of us.
After five years as my father’s daily driver, he sold the F250 to the other company he owned. Still, it remained “in the family.” Many of my siblings and I worked at this company during our high school years. While the truck was used for the business, it also served as our transportation to and from school. A fixture in our daily lives, the truck did not make it through our high school years unscathed, as my sister wrecked it, the front end enduring most of the damage. To fix it, we pulled the frame and most of the front end was changed.
When the business closed, I bought the F250 for $800. I was 18 years old and used it as MY daily driver for several years. Slowly, I started to modify the truck. Aside from having done some light bodywork, painting, and mechanical work on a few other vehicles before, I consider working on that truck to be my first experience of really working on a vehicle, modifying it and making it my own. First, it was the small things. I put an exhaust system on it. I tinted the windows myself and did some bodywork. To finish up the paint and bodywork, I hired my friend’s dad. But I learned a lot from that truck.
After completing the small projects on the F250, I continued to drive it for a little while longer. When I started college in Arizona, I decided to sell the truck for a more economical car. In many ways, I feel I went BACKWARDS, as I ended up with a Chrysler LeBaron 4-door, but the car got good gas mileage and had air conditioning for the hot desert, both of which were wins, so really, the LeBaron was a step sideways maybe.
Thinking about that truck, I miss it. To me, the regret mainly comes on two levels: one, I always thought it was the best-looking body style of the Ford pickups; and two, I have fond memories of growing up around that truck. It was my first vehicle right after high school and memories of four-wheeling and ice racing with it are still vivid.
Plymouth had the idea of sporting up the Valiant for a little while, and Ford’s efforts with the Mustang concepts convinced them it was a good idea. Using the inexpensive Valiant as the starting point, Plymouth designed a sporty, fastback-styled body for the new Barracuda, a car that was originally going to be named Panda. Unlike the Mustang, which didn’t outwardly promote that it was based on the Falcon, the Barracuda was obviously related to the Valiant, but the fastback gave it a very slick look.
1964-1966 first generation Barracuda
When Plymouth introduced the Barracuda, it didn’t create the stir the company was hoping for, and just 23,433 were sold that first year. However, being released in April of 1964, it debuted in a truncated year. Regardless, it served as a shot in the arm for the division, and attracted people to showrooms, which was largely what Plymouth needed at the moment. For 1965, sales improved nicely with 64,596 sold, but word of an all-new body design for 1967 slowed 1966 sales to 38,029.
What engines did the Barracuda have?
Initially, the Barracuda was available with two versions of the Slant Six, either in 170 CI or 225 CI variants with 101 or 145 HP respectively. Stepping into the V-8s, the most powerful option was the new 273 CI engine with a 2-barrel carburetor and 180 HP. For 1965, the Barracuda Formula S would be introduced packing a 273 with a 4-barrel carburetor, higher compression, and modified internals for a respectable 235 HP. The Formula S also begat larger wheels and tires, a tachometer, and an upgraded suspension providing flatter cornering and a stiffer ride. The Formula S package was indeed a popular seller and each year a fair percentage of Barracudas were equipped with it.
Barracuda back glass
One of the most eye-catching things of the new Barracuda was the huge rear window that wrapped around the roof of the car. A true accomplishment in glass engineering, Plymouth worked with Pittsburgh Plate Glass (PPG) to design and make the dramatic window, which interestingly helped the Barracuda achieve a lovely front-to-rear weight balance.
While the fastback body took away from the Valiant look, the nose and interior were hugely styled in the Valiant fashion. But bucket seats were standard, optional on Valiant, and a variety of colors were available, mostly in brighter colors that marketing felt would appeal to the younger generation. Interestingly, though, Plymouth wasn’t only marketing to the youthful crowd. Ads encouraged people to check out the Barracuda because it was a fun, inexpensive, well-equipped, well-thought-out car that appealed to many. It really was a Valiant effort.
1967-1969 second generation Barracuda
For 1967, the Barracuda would be restyled, gaining much of its own identity. Available as a notchback coupe, a fastback, or a convertible, the overall look was highly chiseled and sharp. It would be available with a 280 HP version of the 383 CI big block V-8, edging it more closely into the realm of the muscle car and allowing it to better compete with the likes of the Ford Mustang, which was now available with a 390 CI V-8 engine, and the all-new Chevrolet Camaro and Pontiac Firebird, both of which were available with a lot of optional engines and power packages. With all this competition, the Barracuda had its work cut out for it. It was obvious the pony car wars were hot and largely initiating the muscle car wars.
In 1968, the base 273 would be dropped in favor of the 318 CI V-8 engine and the new 340 CI V-8 would also make a debut. The 383 would be modified close to the Super Bee and Roadrunner specs producing 300 HP.
For 1969, the Barracuda would gain the option of the massive 440 Super Commando V-8, and the 383 would now pack 330 HP. The 318 remained the entry-level V-8 and the 340 largely remained the one the press and public liked the most, offering exceptional balance and handling. While the 440 was exciting and an absolute power hitter, it was said to be very hairy to drive, thanks to the lightweight and small body. Feeding into the growing muscle car craze, customers could build on the Formula S package with the new ’Cuda package. This would be the most aggressive performance package yet, with either the 340, 383, or 440 available.
First generation Barracuda values
Interestingly, while the 1970-1974 Barracuda seem to bring all the attention, these Barracudas have a kind of cult following, which keeps values healthy. Of course, the rarer the more valuable, and often times the restomods bring a nice return on investment too – nothing like modern air conditioning, aluminum radiators, power steering, power brakes, etc to make a car drive more nicely and simply be more enjoyable to bring the value up a bit.
But, all things told, the old rule applies – rarity and condition are king. It seems the bigger engines will always be more desirable, while the small blocks are often overlooked and underrated. However, in moments of surging fuel prices, that trend can turn.
Why do we like early Barracudas?
They’re kind of an oddball in the grand scheme of things. They beat the Ford Mustang to the market by a couple of weeks, they beat the Dodge Charger to the market by a couple of years, they gave Plymouth a shot in the arm and allowed the company to exhibit its talents at creating a car for the youth market, and did very well. While Mustang outsold it by a huge margin, that wasn’t the point of the Barracuda. Of course, Plymouth would have loved additional sales, but the company was also looking to simply engage with a broader market. Bottom line, it was an important car to Plymouth and ChryCo.
That said, while the 440 and 383 are all the rage, reading old magazine reviews of the original 1964-1969 Barracuda will show that the engine of choice was usually the 340 Formula S. Simply put, it was more fun to drive – the big blocks gave a lot of grunt-and-go, and they were impressive, but when it came to outright handling and enjoyability, the small blocks were the way to go.
A-Body Plymouth Barracuda
The days of fuselage styling
For the 1970 model year, Plymouth Barracuda would shed its pony car image for a much more robust, aggressive body design that reflected the way of Chrysler styling to come, what ChryCo referred to as fuselage styling. For Barracuda, that meant a simpler, wider body with sides that had a slight bulge running the length of the car. It would be a very unpretentious looking car, compared to Barracudas of the past – it would have a huskier look which gave an intimidating vibe. The front end would be cleanly styled with a headlight at each side of the full-width grille. At the end of the door, the body would have an uptick, which would also engage in a slightly wider bulge around the rear wheel wells, for a very muscular look.
The interiors would be simple, but very modern with acres of plastic lining the dashboard and door panels. Depending on the package a buyer chose, the instrument cluster could be simple and to the point or feature a number of useful gauges providing loads of vehicle vitals. Simulated woodgrain was also available. Like many pony cars and muscle cars, the checkbook was the limit on accessories and options. The Barracuda was no different. Buyers could even choose a unique vinyl top in a floral pattern which would match the interior insets. It was the 1970s, after all.
For 1971, Plymouth would bring about four headlights and a grille made up of multiple ports creating a kind of cheese grater look, vents on the front fenders, unique taillights, and other minute details setting itself up as a one-year only offering. Interestingly, for 1972, the overall look would largely return to the original styling of the 1970.
For 1975, designers and engineers were working on an all-new body for the Barracuda, with aerodynamic styling inspired by the Plymouth Superbird. But, it was never to be, largely thanks to a changing marketplace for performance vehicles revolving around the gas shortage, insurance safety regulations, efficiency standards, and emissions requirements.
Cars have an interesting way of finding me sometimes. In 2000, a 1969 Dodge Dart GTS, which I still have today, wound up in my possession. Sure, there’s a whole lot more detail to this story of course. So…here it goes.
I purchased this 1969 Dodge Dart from my friend, who oddly enough, is actually a die-hard Ford guy. I’m told that the car was originally owned by an elderly lady who traded it in to a small used car dealership on South Broadway in Englewood, CO. From the dealership, the car was sold to a gentleman who had planned on doing a complete restoration on it.
While the original 340 CI engine was removed from the Dart and sitting on an engine stand, the engine was supposedly stolen out of the second owner’s garage. And so, the gentleman purchased another 340 CI engine. He then proceeded to begin restorations on the Dart, but soon found himself in legal troubles, which forced the sale of the car. At this point, my Ford friend, who knew the gentleman, decided to purchase the car to help out.
My friend owned the Dart for about five years. A local driveline company wanted to buy it first and turn it into a drag car, but he didn’t want to see the car cut up. This is how I came into the picture to be the car’s next owner.
When I bought the Dart from my friend, it was an original 340, 727 floor shift, console car (sans the original engine of course) that had 72,000 miles on it. Residing 50-miles away from my friend, I trailered the car home and almost right away, I stripped it down to bare metal. Surprisingly, the car had no rust on it.
I completed all the bodywork, and when it came time to paint it, another friend of mine, who managed the body shop at the local Lincoln Mercury dealership, let me use their paint booth. I painted the Dart with a color called Gold Iridium. After painting, I disassembled the motor, replacing all the seals, gaskets, and rings. I replaced all the interior with new replacements from YEARONE.
Living in the Denver area, I found myself bringing the Dart to Bandimere Speedway on a few occasions to make some passes. Between visits, I continued to modify the car. I ported and polished the heads and intake, and (because why not?!) added a 100-shot of nitrous. I pulled the 750 Holley double pumper off and went to a 650. I found that the 750 was too much carburetor for the altitude. Lastly, I changed the rear gears from 4.56’s to 3.55’s. I tried to run the Dart on full drag slicks, but it didn’t yield any better results. I found that the best time that the Dart ran, a 12.37-quarter mile, was on street tires.
As I mentioned in the beginning of this story, the Dart is still with me today. When I bought it, it had 72,000 miles and it currently shows 80,000 miles. The car has won three awards to date and this restoration has made me feel especially proud because all the work was done by me, and mostly in my garage, except for the painting. I never expected to win any awards with the car, and that unexpected accomplishment makes me smile. The Dart doesn’t just sit in my garage. In fact, I drive it all the time – even to run errands.
By Jim Ochs
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