The Nissan Skyline GT-R

Arguably, the beginning of the Nissan GT-R can be traced to 1957, when the Prince Motor Company, which would merge with Nissan in 1966, introduced the ALSI-1 luxury-performance sedan. Shinichiro Sakurai would have a heavy hand in the design and chassis engineering of the Prince Skyline, and he would remain with Nissan through his death in 2011. For all those years, he was a constant advisor on the Skyline and subsequent GT-Rs that followed. Needless to say, the Skyline and GT-R names are historically important for Nissan, Japan, and motorsports in general. The current GT-R that’s been on the market since 2007 has little to do with the original variants, but at the same time, has much to do with them. Buying one has become infinitely easier, thanks to their importation to the United States, whereas previous models were not. This all began with former Nissan CEO Carlos Ghosn, who launched the Nissan Revival Plan, which entailed introducing a number of changes in order to save the company from becoming extinct. Radical indeed, one part of the plan was to introduce an international halo car which would not only attract public interest, but point to accomplishments the company has achieved in decades past. This, of course, was the beginning of the modern-era GT-R.

The All-New GT-R

After several years of developing and testing, the production version of the Nissan GT-R debuted at the 2007 Tokyo Motor Show.  One of its verifications as a true performance leader was a video which showed the GT-R lapping the Nurburgring racetrack in 7:38.54, beating the Porsche 911 Turbo’s time of 7:40 minutes.  This was excellent indeed as the 911 Turbo was Nissan’s benchmark as the company aimed to slot the car in competition with the 911 Turbo, Ferrari F430, Corvettes ZR1 and Z06, and Lamborghini Gallardo.  By beating the 911 Turbo at the Nurburgring, it indeed had established itself as a competitor in the field.  At that 2007 launch, Nissan received more than 3,000 orders from Japanese customers.

The GT-R would absolutely floor the press and public with exceptional performance, outstanding build quality, and a price point that put it easily competitive with the top dog Corvettes and Porsche 911 Turbo.  But, there were initial calls for improvement, and Nissan tended to them quickly with various improvements and updates for the 2010 model year.  Some of these were a power increase to 478 HP, retuned suspension, standard front seat and side curtain airbags, and a reprogrammed launch control system.  Again, in 2011, the GT-R would be improved with a restyled body, and another power increase to 523 HP, larger front brake rotors, lighter and stiffer wheels, stiffer springs, dampers, and sway bars, and a stiffer front strut bar made of a carbon composite material.  Again, Nissan would improve the GT-R for 2012, 2014, 2016, 2019, and 2023 after taking some time off between 2021 and 2022 in the North American market.  In June of 2024, Nissan announced that it would end North American market production of the GT-R in October with two exclusive models, the GT-R T-spec Takumi and Skyline wrapping up the run.

How Fast is the Nissan GT-R?

The GT-R proved to be one of the quickest and fastest cars on the market.  Initially proving faster around the Nurburgring than the Porsche 911 Turbo, the GT-R was tested by the press as having 0-60 times of 3.3 seconds, ¼-mile times of 11.6 seconds, and top speeds of 196 MPH.  Later variants would turn in times as low as 2.7 seconds to 60 MPH, 10.7 seconds to finish a ¼-mile run, and top speeds of 204 MPH.  And that’s just straight-line acceleration.  Keep in mind, the GT-R turned in a lap time of 7:18.6 minutes at the Nurburgring in 2004, which was hugely respectable for the year.

Which GT-R is the Best?

It’s doubtful anyone would be disappointed with any GT-R.  They are poised, balanced, refined, comfortable, loaded with technology, blisteringly quick, abhorrently fast, highly exclusive, and can be driven daily if need be.  All that said, what’s not to love about the Nissan GT-R?

Our advice is to stick with those that are unmodified and have been well cared for, but also perhaps paying attention to the special edition models.  These will generally be lower production cars, rarity that may spell a more solid investment later on.  These cars offer all the performance and pizzazz of a ‘regular’ GT-R, but with a higher level of exclusivity.  These include the GT-R Black Edition, the GT-R Track Edition, GT-R Nismo, GT-R T-spec, SpecV, Midnight Opal SE, GT-R50, 45^th Anniversary Gold Edition, the Naomi Osaka Edition, the Nismo SE, the 50^th Anniversary, and the Egotist, all of which offer their own unique flavors of exclusivity and design, but most importantly, a level of exclusivity above the average GT-R.  It’s these cars that we feel should be most sought after for their rarity alone – special editions normally command slightly higher premiums and returns on investment.

In the summer of 1981, I was 17 years old. Full of spunk, I was ready to take on the world and to buy my own car. Most of the guys I was running around with had Camaros, Chevelles, and a few Fords sprinkled in the mix. Always wanting to be a little different from the rest of the fellas…enter one 1968 Dodge Charger. Originally finished in MM1- Bronze Metallic (more commonly known as Turbine Bronze), the seller had painted it red at some point, but it still had a black vinyl top, a black interior with bucket seats, and a 383 big block with a 727 automatic and a floor shift.

When I bought the car, for a whopping $2,300, little did I know that both rear axle seals were shot, the kickdown linkage for the transmission was totally non-existent, the motor was just about shot and burned oil bad, the entire wiring harness at the firewall in the engine compartment had been cut and spliced back together with butt connectors…needless to say, the car had some serious problems. However, the body was perfectly straight with absolutely no rust, a big bonus.

Having zero mechanical experience and virtually no money, boy did I have to learn how to fix things quickly. Fortunately, I turned out to be very mechanically inclined. We had an old racer down the street and I spent a lot of time in his garage learning how to build engines, among other things. Funnily enough, that old racer was a diehard Chevrolet guy and most of his inner circle just couldn’t believe he was helping this young guy with a Mopar.

Thanks to him though, I learned a lot about vehicles in a short time. To this day that man, Jim (not to be confused with my brother Jim), has most likely forgotten more than I know. Within a few short years, I had rebuilt the rear end, rebuilt the engine and transmission, rewired the car, and fixed the electrical issues as well as the entire brake system. Clearly, my muscle car craze had started.

How’s the Charger doing today? Currently, it has been torn apart and sits on a rotisserie waiting for a total restoration just as soon as I finish my 1969 Superbee. The Charger will be painted back to its original color with a modern power train.

By Chris Ochs

Was the Triumph TR6 an all-new car?

In short, no.  The TR6 offered buyers an all-new, sharper, blockier, more modern body style designed by Karmann of Germany, but was based upon the familiar chassis with the new 2.5L inline 6-cylinder engine that debuted in the TR5.  But, the new style gave the car a much more muscular, aggressive look than the preceding TRs, and yet, it was a minimal effort.  Because of budget constraints, the TR6 would use the same doors, windshield, and most of the body tub from the TR5 cars.

With a four-wheel independent suspension, rack-and-pinion steering, front disc brakes, and the 2.5L inline 6-cylinder engine, the TR6 was a marked improvement over other TRs.  While it was very closely related to the TR4A, optional Michelin tires, rear anti-roll bars, and limited-slip differentials took the TR6 to another handling level and helped make better use of the powerful engine.  Interestingly, few TR6 buyers opted their cars with these features, but the available hardtops and overdrive transmissions were very popular.

When it debuted in 1968 for the 1969 model year, it was very well received by both sportscar enthusiasts and people looking for a fun car with pep.  A number of changes occurred, both subtle and more obvious, even during just the first few months – fuel injection wasn’t available until a bit later, the gauges were updated, a new front spoiler was added, and a milder cam was installed on the FI cars when they became available, dropping horsepower to 125, but making the car easier to drive in traffic.

Fuel injected cars could sprint from 0-60 in about 8-seconds and showed top speeds right at 120 MPH, confirming again that Triumph was one of the quickest and fastest production roadsters available, and one of just a handful in the price range with such an enviable roster of equipment.

How many Triumph TR6 were built?

Buyers recognized the value of the TR6, making it the most popular of the TR-series with over 90,000 units sold by the time production ceased in 1976.

Where so many European roadsters could be absolutely uncivil, the TR brought with it a sense of welcome luxury.  Riding on massive tires, the ride quality was like no other, yet the taut suspension allowed for exceptional handling with plenty of room for improvements.  The interior was a welcoming environment of supportive bucket seats, full carpeting, full instrumentation, and a slab of wood stretching the width of the dashboard.  Couple that with a powerful 6-cylinder engine, and some people likened it to the Jaguar E-Type, Porsche 911, and Mercedes 280SL, without the sticker price.  Interestingly, some even noticed the design similarities between the SL and the TR6, with a lengthy front end, blunted nose and tail, and tire sizes seemingly disproportionate to the overall size of the car.

The oft ignored Triumph TR7

Known as “The Shape of Things to Come” by advertising people of the day, the futuristically-styled TR7 was more often known as the wedge car.  It’s heavily raked front end and windscreen, chiseled edges, and blunted features indeed lent it a certain space age theme.

Introduced in the United States in January of 1975, it oddly wouldn’t debut in the United Kingdom until May of 1976.  The car was surrounded by a small smattering of wedge-shaped cars popular in the era, most notably the Lamborghini Countach, the Fiat X1/9, the DeTomaso Pantera, the Lotus Eclat, the Lotus Elite Types 75 and 83, and a number of others.  Popular, the TR7 returned to the 4-cylinder engine with reduced power output and overall performance, but increased drivability by a wide margin.  The handling and comfort characteristics were spectacular, it was a car that basically anyone could drive daily with great ease.  Interestingly too, the TR7 was designed with a V-8 engine in mind.

Available as a hardtop or convertible

During its development, there was murmuring in the USA concerning rollover safety of convertibles, which caused Triumph to rethink the idea of offering strictly roadsters.  The TR7 would initially be sold only as a fixed-head coupe; but, by 1979, a droptop TR7 was offered, which gave customers the big question of buying a hardtop or a convertible.  Many lamented the hardtop, claiming the old removable hardtop was a fantastic idea, but again, following the legislative requirements, it was necessary to produce a solid hardtop coupe.

Is the TR7 reliable? 

Like so many European sportscars, their reputation for reliability depends on who you talk to.  TR7 owners often discussed head gasket failures, delicate manual transmissions, electrical troubles, and dysfunctional popup headlights, but outside of these, the TR7 seemed to serve well.  Like so many European cars in North America, it’s very possible that its main trouble was lack of knowing mechanics to maintain and correct the cars, which would often result in worsening a car’s overall condition.  It’s important to seek out a car that’s been well maintained, with records, by a reputable shop or mechanic, or very skilled and caring owner.

What engine did the TR7 have?

The TR7 was a step back, in some regards, the 6-cylinder of the TR6 being dropped in favor of a 2.0L inline 4-cylinder engine with either a 4-speed manual, 5-speed manual, or 3-speed automatic transmission.  With 92 HP, American versions of the car were, as usual, the least powerful of the batch.

European versions of the TR7 were capable of 0-60 runs in about 10-seconds and top speeds of about 108 MPH, drastically increased from the TR6.  Chassis formula was roughly the same, with front disc brakes, thick front and rear sway bars, and an independent front suspension with coil springs front and rear.

Despite the woes of 4-cylinder motoring, Triumph engineered the TR7 to accommodate an 8-cylinder engine, which would beget the TR8.

Was the TR8 the last of the TR?

Yes – the swan song for the TR was the TR8, a TR7 with a 3.5L V-8 engine, making it a very respectable performance machine.  While fantasies at Triumph swirled around a resurrection of the Sunbeam Tiger and AC Cobra, the Triumph TR8 would prove to be much more relaxed than either, but an easy contender for high-powered sportscars of the era such as Chevrolet Corvette.  In fact, the TR8 was often called the British Corvette.  With its own unique brand of performance mixed with rebellious styling, the TR8 was a very interesting piece of Triumph and automotive history, ending production of the famed and fabled TR line very much on a high note.

What engine was used in the TR8?

The 3.5L Rover V-8 used in the TR8 was derived from an engine designed and manufactured by Buick-Oldsmobile in the 1960s.  The rights to manufacture it had been sold to British Leyland and the V-8 found itself in a number of vehicles.

Interestingly, the TR8 was in development simultaneously with the TR7 in the early 1970s.  However, because the V-8s were not available, supplies having gone to other makers, Triumph had to wait and sell only TR7s.  The TR8 would be supplied with both carbureted and fuel injected V-8s, depending on the market and their emissions restrictions.  For 1980, carbureted California cars showed 133 HP, while the fuel injected cars show 137 HP.  By 1981, all North American TR8s used fuel injection and delivered 148 HP, which gave the TR8 a 0-60 time of about 8-seconds.

To cope with a slightly heavier engine, more power, and higher performance, the TR8 was equipped with heavier-duty brakes, the battery was relocated to the trunk to alleviate space and better balance the front-to-rear weight bias, the rear axle ratio was adjusted, and alloy wheels were used.

How rare is a TR8?

The TR8 is one of the rarest of the TR line, with about 2,800 TR8 coupes and convertibles being made between 1978 and 1981, with a multitude of further breakdowns available to determine some cars as rarer than others.

Are the TR7 and TR8 important?

Yes, they are important for several reasons, most obviously their rarity.  While a fair number of TR7s were made, few survive – and the TR8 was a rarity from the get-go.  With the rarity can come importance, but also the TR7 and TR8 were unique in that while all subsequent TRs can trace their roots back to the original TR2, the TR7 and TR8 were all new.

The TR7 and TR8 used an all-new uni-body and chassis, and the TR7 returned to the 4-cylinder formula.  The smaller engine with the doorstop shape was supposed to ensure exceptional fuel efficiency, which was very important in the era.

The TR7 was the first TR, the only TR, to offer a true coupe bodystyle with a companion convertible.  This, in a way, nullified the “TR” name, which stood for Triumph Roadster – after all, a full hardtop coupe is no roadster.  All the previous TRs used a removable hardtop to close up their interiors, something a few customers missed.

The TR8 provided customers the opportunity of owning a true, V-8-powered sportscar, a rare treat in the very latest years of the 1970s for the price point.  A truly unique vehicle, the TR8 gave customers exceptional performance and the panache of a V-8 engine – oddly, no 6-cylinder was offered.  Only a 4- or 8-cylinder.

The new Z started with a V

For 1984, Nissan would unveil the new 300ZX, a car using much of the outgoing 280ZX chassis and overall architecture, but sporting an all-new 3.0L V-6 engine.  This was a bold departure from the inline six traditionally used in the Z Car since its debut in 1969, but allowed for better packaging, smoother idling, higher efficiency, and a host of other benefits, according to Nissan.

Known as the Z31 to insiders, the new 300ZX featured sharply angled edges, and chiseled corners all tempered by subtle and softly sloping gradients.  The result was a car that absolutely epitomized 1980s car design – slightly boxy with a degree of arch.  It was hugely popular and the limited edition Shiro 300ZX of 1988 would prove to be one of the quickest and fastest production cars available, sprinting from 0-60 in just over 5-seconds and topping out at 153 MPH, according to Car and Driver magazine.  By 1989, the Z31 was aging nicely, but there was more to be had from that engine.  And more modern styling to be delivered.  It would come in the form of the all-new 300ZX of 1990.

Known as the Z32, the chassis and body and interior were completely revised, but the engine and transmission remained largely the same – only now it sported four overhead cams, 24 valves and variable valve timing, which gave the normally aspirated versions 222 HP – roughly 50 more HP than the Z31.  Instead of offering with a single turbo, Nissan packed in two turbos and two intercoolers, creating an even 300 HP – Corvette wouldn’t get 300 HP until 1992, delivering 250 until then.  And the Z cost quite a bit less than a Corvette and offered easier ingress-egress.

 

Is the Z32 300ZX fast?

Yes – indeed, the Nissan 300ZX, in either twin turbo or normally aspirated variants, could be considered quick and fast.  They ran from 0-60 in 5- or 6-seconds, and had an electronically limited top speed of 155 MPH.  Even the normally aspirated Z would top out around 140 MPH.  On top of that, the Z could handle like a slot car, able to hold the road like few others.  Magazines of the day praised the Z32 for its predicable handling and overall poised demeanor, a car that could get out of hand, but simply didn’t without a lot of encouragement.

Is the Z32 300ZX a good collector’s car?

 It’s coming of age, for sure.  At the moment, the 240Z and 280ZX seem to dominate the market, with collectors paying premiums for either in exceptional condition.  However, aside from the special edition Z31s (there were only two, the 50^th Anniversary Edition of 1984 and the Shiro edition of 1988), the Z32 seems to be the stronger bet when it comes to collectability.

Because of their higher original sticker prices and polarizing styling, fewer were built overall.  On top of that, the amount of engineering that was bestowed over the Z32 was exemplary, and it boasted styling and a number of luxurious features to remind people that it was indeed an absolutely premium, borderline exotic car.

 

While the obvious choice for collectors is the twin turbo, there’s nothing wrong with the simplicity of the normally aspirated Z.  They move very well and require a little less maintenance and are less likely to attract unwanted attention.  Second to the twin turbo search though would be the Z32 convertible.  Produced by American Sunroof Corporation (ASC), the convertibles were all of the two-seat variety and none were offered as twin turbos.  Which we think is a crying shame.  But, for whatever reason, that’s the way it was.  But, that said, finding a Z32 ’vert with a manual transmission might prove exquisitely fabulous.  After all – open top motoring in a car that seems almost psychic when it comes to knowing what you want to do can’t be bad.

The differences between a TR2 and a TR3

At the Earl’s Court Motor Show of 1952, Triumph showed the first iteration of the TR2.  It was a popular attraction, and the company felt it would succeed very well in the United States.  Once production commenced in August of 1953, most of them were sent to North America.  Costing roughly $2,500, TR2 sold very well, with several of them being entered into Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) events.  By the time production ceased in September of 1955, 8,636 had been built.

The TR3 took the baton from the TR2 with refreshed styling and brought with it several improvements over the TR2.  Horsepower increased, thanks to larger SU carburetors; later, another bump would occur with the new “high-port head,” and revised manifold.  The 4-speed manual transmission could be opted with an electrically-engaged overdrive, and by 1956, disc brakes would replace drums, a first for a British production car.  Interestingly, despite certain handling idiosyncrasies, the basic chassis would soldier on from the TR2 through the TR4.

For 1957, the TR3A was introduced, although the nomenclature of the “A” is normally used only by enthusiasts.  The “A” denoted revised styling and convenience features like exterior door handles and a lockable trunk, as well as bigger tires, which, with the new disc brakes, made the TR an exceptional handler for the day, despite certain characteristics.  Roughly 58,000 were built by the time the TR3A ceased production and the TR3B was ushered in, again, the “B” never an official part of the model’s name.  

What is the Triumph TR4?

The Triumph TR4 is the first major evolution of the original TR.  Introduced in 1961, it was styled by Giovanni Michelotti and ushered the TR into a very modern realm of styling, with an almost perfectly flat beltline, a gently sloping hood with raised arches to accommodate the headlights, and more.  It looked almost nothing like the outgoing TR and would span through 1976 with a multitude of changes.

What changes did the TR4 have?

The TR4 sustained use of the inline 4-cylinder engine seen in the earlier TRs, but increased displacement to 2138cc with either two Zenith-Stromberg or two SU carburetors, depending on who was selling carburetors to the factory.  For customers wanting to race in the under 2-Liter class, Triumph continued to offer the original 1995cc 4-cylinder engine.

The chassis was almost unchanged; however, the TR4 benefited from rack-and-pinion steering, revised suspension geometry, larger front brake calipers, a live rear axle with semi-elliptical springs, and lever-arm dampers.  The larger tires and wheels provided better grip and, along with the suspension revisions, improved the overall ride, something many owners had long complained about TR.

An exceptional step up from the original TR formula, the TR4 sold over 40,000 units in 5-years, and a batch of them were used by police departments in England as “Fast Pursuit Cars,” further building on their image of performance and durability.

What is the TR4A?

Introduced in 1965, the TR4A built on the chassis of the TR4 with an independent rear suspension, and wider front and rear wheel tracks.  The idea was to improve both ride and handling, but many critics of the day declared the work to have improved the ride, but created unpredictable handling characteristics.  A number of owners reverted their TR4As back to a live rear axle package, forgoing the supple ride in favor of better handling.  Outside of some minor trim and design changes, the TR4 and TR4A are very, very similar.

What is the difference between the TR4A and the TR5?

Simply put, the TR5 brought a 2.5L inline 6-cylinder engine to the TR program, giving it a major boost in performance and panache – after all, everyone wants a 6-cylinder, right?  It was good for 150 HP when it was equipped with the Lucas fuel injection system, or 106 HP with the twin carburetors.  The North American market would receive the TR250, made only with the carburetors to meet US emissions and efficiency regulations, while Europe and the Rest of the World (ROW) cars would get the fuel injected engine.

Produced only from August of 1967 to September of 1968, the TR5/TR250 enjoyed only a short run, but showed the world what Triumph was up to in terms of providing performance for a wider audience of people through respectable prices.  Case in point, the Porsche 911 of 1968 produced 158 HP, yet cost a bit more than double that of the TR5/TR250.  The TR5/TR250 was available with a number of options like wire wheels, an overdrive transmission, a tonneau cover, a removable hardtop, and even air conditioning, all furthering the upscale image of the TR.

By the time production ended, Triumph had produced just over 8,000 TR250s, but less than 3,000 TR5s in the same time span.

Continuing reading more about the TR6 through TR8 models here. {part 3 of 3}

 

There’s a lot of things to consider when buying a car online. With so many listings that can yield from a single search, sometimes you’re lucky and the car might be within traveling distance, but in most cases, the car is not. Many have asked me about how I go about searching for, verifying details, and deciding on which cars that I will pursue. I’ve prepared a guide based on my personal experiences to answer this.

When I am looking to purchase a vehicle online the key checkpoints in my process:

1. Vehicle Listing:
   

• • Detailed Descriptions: Listings with comprehensive details about the vehicle’s history, condition, features, and any modifications are very important. Lack of information might lead to a “no.” If the description says that the vehicle is 100% perfect or all original, I would be skeptical (Vehicles are only all original once and most vehicles are not completely perfect). Imperfections pointed out by the seller tells me they are honestly representing what they are selling, and I know what I am purchasing.
  • High-Quality Images: Clear, high-resolution photos from various angles (interior and exterior) help buyers make a quick judgment. Poor-quality images or lack of photos often result in a “maybe” or “no.” In my years of doing several restorations, the body, frame, paint, and pans are most important to see in detailed photos. These parts are the most time consuming and expensive to replace or repair. Other details about the vehicle are also important but things like interior, weatherstripping, and tires are easily replaceable.
  • Vehicle History Report: A detailed vehicle history report, including accident history, ownership history, and service records, can influence a “yes.” Keep in mind this is only available on vehicles 1981 or later.

2. Verifying the Vehicle’s Details:
   

• • In Person Inspection: When possible, I like to do a personal inspection of the vehicle. In a lot of situations this is not an option because of time, distance, and other life commitments. If I have a trusted relative, friend, or colleague who is in the vicinity of the car, I may reach out to ask them to help me do an inspection.
  • Facetime Video: See if the seller will take a few minutes to do a Facetime video call to address any areas of concern. If the seller is willing to do a video call, this is a positive sign that the seller is being transparent.
  • Local Car Shop: Find a local reputable car shop and see if the seller will take the vehicle there for an inspection.

3. Price Evaluation:
   

• • Competitive Pricing: I compare prices across different platforms. If a vehicle is priced too high compared to similar listings, it may result in a “no.” Fair or slightly negotiable pricing can turn a “maybe” into a “yes.” I use platforms like Hagerty valuation, Kelly Blue Book, and CARFAX to compare pricing. If the seller has an appraisal done on the car, this is also helpful.
  • Price Transparency: Clear explanations of the pricing, including any fees, taxes, or additional costs, are crucial. Hidden costs can lead to a “no.”

4. Seller Communication:
   

• • Response Time: A prompt and professional response from the seller can significantly impact my decision. Delayed or unprofessional communication might result in a “maybe” or “no.” In my past dealings, I have sent clear and concise questions to the seller to get more insight or history on the vehicle in question. Honest sellers will answer every question that is presented in the first communication. Other sellers will only answer certain questions, and it takes four or five times of back and forth to have my questions answered. When this happens, my interest level diminishes drastically because it seems the seller is not being honest or does not truly know what they are selling.
  • Test Drive: Offering the option for a test drive or vehicle inspection can sway me towards a “yes.” If a test drive is not possible, ask for a video of the vehicle being driven, both from an exterior view and from inside the vehicle. Ask for a cold start video (make sure to ask that the video includes the temperature gauge at start-up) and a walk around video with the vehicle running.

5. Decision-Making Factors:
   

• • Condition of the Vehicle: The overall condition, including engine performance, exterior, and interior, plays a major role. Any signs of major repairs or issues can lead to a “no.” Make sure you know your intentions of buying the vehicle. If you plan on doing some light restoration or a full blown one, this will dictate the price you are willing to pay. A lot of buyers want a turnkey vehicle, which means they just want to turn the key and drive it. They are not interested in doing any kind of work or paying someone to do the work.
  • Trust in the Seller: If the seller is perceived as trustworthy and has positive reviews, buyers are more likely to say “yes.” If this is a first-time seller with no reviews, their willingness to provide more information, documentation, videos, and additional pictures tells me they are being honest, transparent, and trustworthy in what they are selling.
  • Ease of Transaction: Simple, secure payment options and clear transfer of ownership processes contribute to a “yes.” A secure payment would include wire transfer or bank check, that once verified that the funds are in your bank account, you can then conclude the transaction. A non-refundable deposit is always a good step for holding a vehicle. This keeps the buyer honest in completing the transaction because they know if they do not, they have lost their money.

6. Final Decision:
   

• • Yes: The car meets all my needs or wants, is priced fairly, and the seller is trustworthy.
  • Maybe: There are a few uncertainties, such as price, condition, or lack of information, but I am still interested. I will likely continue to communicate with the seller to see if I learn enough to sway me to a “yes.”
  • No: The car is overpriced, has issues, or the seller is not trustworthy.

By Jim Ochs

The History of Triumph

The Triumph TR line of cars largely put Triumph on the map and saved the company by making it a more valuable property than it ever had been.  Triumph Motorcars originated as the Triumph Cycle Company when Siegfried Bettmann relocated to Coventry, England to begin selling European-sourced bicycles.  Three years later, with a partner, the company began building their own Triumph bicycles, and in 1902, they’d dropped a motor onto the frame to make their first motorcycle.  World War I proved to be a huge boost for the company, with over 50,000 “Trusty Triumphs” used by Allied Forces, namely the Model H Roadster, which is often credited as being the first modern motorcycle.

Purchasing the Dawson Car Company in 1921, Triumph expanded into the motorcar manufacturing business and founded the Triumph Motorcar Company in 1930.  By 1936, motorcar and motorcycle manufacturing were separated, and by 1937, in-house design engineer, Donald Healey, was designing Triumph’s very own engine for the cars.  Like Dawson, Triumph became known for producing high-end vehicles with spirit and a sporting character, which led to financial troubles like what Dawson experienced.  By the late 1930s, Triumph in all its forms was in difficulty, something the onset of World War II exacerbated.

Through receivership and new ownerships aplenty, both the motorcycle and motorcar companies would go on through the years, each building on their strengths and the market interests.  By the end of World War II, it seemed everyone, especially American G.I.s returning to the USA, wanted a sportscar, and Triumph was going to oblige, tapping into the very lucrative market.  While the TR was not exactly the company’s first sportscar, it was the one in which Triumph bestowed a lot of effort and became a hit with the sportscar world.

What does TR stand for?

Wanting to compete in sportscar events, Sir John Black, chairman of the Standard Motor Car Company, which owned Triumph Motor Car Company, tried but failed to acquire the Morgan Motor Company.  So, instead, he turned to his own people at Triumph to produce a sporting car.

The Triumph Roadster Experimental, or TR-X, a prototype, evolved into the 20TS production car, which was unveiled at the 1952 London Motor Show.  Triumph hired Ken Richardson, a development engineer and test driver for British Racing Motors, or BRM, to test drive and assess the 20TS.  A seasoned racing veteran with a lengthy succession of races to his credit, he proclaimed the 20TS to be, “the most awful car I’ve ever driven in my life, it’s a bloody death trap.”  With this, Triumph took him in even closer to help develop a proper sporting Triumph Roadster, ultimately becoming the TR2.

Is the Triumph TR a fast car?

Taking to the Jabbeke Highway in Belgium, Richardson drove a TR2 with a slightly streamlined body and an unmodified engine to a top speed of 124.889 MPH, proving that it was one of the fastest production cars in the world for 1952.  In fact, despite the TR2’s smaller 4-cylinder engine, it proved to be as fast as the Healey 100 and returned better fuel economy at roughly 32 MPG.  That record-setting TR2 still exists today.

For 1953, Triumph would introduce the TR2 to the world, and in 1954, Maurice Gatsonides and Ken Richardson would drive a TR2 in the Mille Miglia, finishing 27^th overall – Richardson and TR2s would compete in many other events, including LeMans, the Alpine Rally, and the Tourist Trophy at Northern Island, finishing very nicely.  This streak would continue with the updated TR3, TRS, and TR3S in subsequent years.  So, was the TR a fast car?  Yes, and it proved to be a very robust car in motorsports events, earning it respect around the world.

Read more about the differences in the TR models here. {part 2 of 3}

by C. E. Bennett, CEO, Zymol

Vehicle manufacturers apply a clear coat to paints to achieve extra depth, color, and gloss.  They look terrific, creating a finish that really “pops” when it’s properly cleaned.  To maintain that “pop,” clear coats require very special care.

Clear Coated Paints are not Magic:

Many of the car waxes on the market today can damage clear coat finishes because most commercial products are still made for the way cars used to be painted, with a very thick (18-26 mil) paint applied directly to the surface of the car.  Exposed to the atmosphere without a clear coat, this ‘One-Stage’ paint needed strong solvents or abrasives in the wax to remove oxidation, soiling, and stains.

But most cars built after 1990 have a thin layer (6-7mil) of basic color paint, which is covered by an even thinner (1-1.5mil) clear coat finish.  This ‘two-stage’ paint is easily damaged (scratched) from the abrasives in ordinary commercial waxes.  After spending many hours waxing your car you may have “swirl marks” or “cob-webbing.”  These are nothing more than patterns of tiny scratches.  Some waxes claim to be made for clear coated paint, but they leave a film or residue when dry that is hard to rub off, and, rubbing harshly will definitely do more damage.

Unfortunately, the world’s finest waxes will not produce a brilliant shine or lasting protection if applied over dull, oxidized, soiled paint or old wax.  Normal washing will not remove oxidized paint, minor swirl marks, old wax, insect tar, acid rain, and catalytic converter residue (hydrochloric and sulfuric acids).  Proper Pre-Wax Cleaning or using a Cleaner Wax is necessary to remove these impregnated contaminants and provide a fresh, clean surface to which the wax can adhere.

The difficulty is how to clean the paint safely without using abrasive grit, harsh solvents or destructive Clay Bars.  Typical cleaner wax products “scrub” the surface clean with petroleum solvents and compounds, which can accelerate paint oxidation and aging.  But, the finish MUST be cleaned BEFORE it is waxed.

If you adhere to the basic following steps, you can almost guarantee success.

Step 1:  Wash

Before waxing your car, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS wash it thoroughly.  Any dirt or grit that is on your car’s surface will scratch the paint that you are trying to protect.  We recommend non-acidic, non-phosphoric, low, or no sodium-based liquid car washes that claim to do nothing but wash.  Be on your guard against multi-function products, there is no replacement for common sense and lots of warm water.

Step 2:  Cleanse

Between the washing and waxing, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS clean it thoroughly.  All painted surfaces should be cleaned with a non-abrasive, safe pre-wax cleaner prior to applying wax.  Quality pre-wax cleaners will have natural astringent properties to penetrate and extract trapped dirt, impurities, and dead, oxidized paint adhering to the surface.  As you apply the pre-wax cleaner, it will penetrate and break down everything on the surface of the paint, encapsulating grime so it can be easily wiped off without scratching the clear coat.  Minor swirl marks and scratches are visually reduced by removing the leading “edge” of the dead paint surrounding the scratch.  The oils will also attach to the released deposits and allow these deposits to be wiped off using a simple terry towel or a Microwipe.

Step 3:  Wax

Now that you have completely cleaned your paint’s surface, revealing paint with life and luster, follow with a coat of high quality, natural wax to protect and shield the paint.  ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use a non-abrasive, naturally-derived wax.

For maximum paint protection and shine, clean your paint twice a year (seasonal and geographic adjustments required) and apply a maintenance coat of wax every one to two months. Remember, wax degradation cannot be seen.  When we think our cars are crying out for attention, we are seeing new paint damage.

The real mistake made by most enthusiasts is thinking that waxing is enough.  Pre-wax cleaning is the difference between a good-looking car and a great-looking automobile.

Until next time…this enthusiast-writer is going to go out to wash and clean his car, apply my wax or Cleaner Wax and celebrate the Spring!

photo credit Zymol

I recently took a trip to visit Pioneer Village in Minden, Nebraska. This is a significant historical museum that offers visitors a glimpse into the past, showcasing the evolution of American life over the centuries. I found it quite fascinating and here’s some information that might even get you interested to go take a visit.

The History of the Pioneer Village Museum

Founded by Harold Warp, a businessman and philanthropist, Pioneer Village opened its doors on June 6, 1953. Warp, who was born in 1903 in a sod house near Minden, went on to become a successful industrialist and is best known for inventing Flex-O-Glass. He used his wealth to build and create Pioneer Village as a way to give back to his community and to preserve American history. The vision for the museum was to illustrate the progress of civilization with a focus on technological advancements that had taken place over the previous century.

Collections and Exhibits

Pioneer Village features an extensive collection that houses over 50,000 historical items. It is one of the most comprehensive collections in Americana. The exhibits cover transportation, agriculture, household items, and industry.

Some details on their main attractions:

• Transportation: A collection of antique cars, airplanes, and other forms of transportation, illustrating the evolution from horse-drawn buggies to modern automobiles, and aircraft.
• Agriculture: Numerous exhibits detailing the history of farming and agriculture with a focus on antique tractors, plows, and other farming equipment.
• Everyday Life: Exhibits about domestic life, with displays of household items, clothing, and appliances from various eras.

Authentic Buildings

The museum complex includes 28 buildings, many of which are authentic historical structures that have been relocated to the site. These buildings help create an immersive experience, allowing visitors to step back in time and see how people lived and worked in different periods of American history.

Impact and Legacy

The Pioneer Village has become an important educational resource over the years as it attracts visitors from around the world. With its extensive collections and exhibits, visitors see a tangible link to the past, helping people understand and appreciate the progress and challenges of earlier generations.

The museum is also vital to the local community as it hosts events, educational programs, and activities that engage all generations. The center continues to work on preserving and expanding collections, ensuring that future generations can continue to learn from and enjoy these historical treasures.

Modern Developments

Pioneer Village continues to update and maintain their exhibits to ensure they remain relevant and informative. Incorporating modern technology such as digitizing collections is one effort that the museum is making.

Visitors can find guided tour opportunities and immerse themselves in interactive exhibits and educational programs. When participating in the tour, history comes alive.

How to Visit Pioneer Village
Check out their current events by visiting them here.

Photo Credit: Pioneer Village

By Jim Ochs

The C3 could be a finicky car, especially in the latter part of the 1970s through the end of days in 1982.  However, if they are properly maintained and sorted, even the later C3s could prove to be a fine, fun car.  While some are cringing at our claim that both the C3 and C4 represented some of the finest moments in Corvette history, we offer Exhibit A, the oft overlooked LT1 Corvette.

So many C3 buyers go straight to the big block 427 and 454 CI V-8s, and there is nothing dumb about that.  But there is no shame in a standard-issue 350 CI small block V-8, and there is absolute magic in the 1970-1972 350 CI LT1 V-8.  The most powerful of the Corvette small blocks at the time, the LT1 churned out a whopping 370 HP in 1970 and was a specially-made engine with various modifications adding not only power, but durability.  As with all engines of the day, the 1971 and 1972 LT1s would tout less power, 330 (the 454 boasted 365 HP the same year) and 255 respectably; but, 1972 would allow LT1s to be optioned with air conditioning, a feature formerly unavailable.  The LT1 Corvettes offered absolutely spectacular performance, and thanks to the lighter engine out front, they were often considered much more enjoyable to drive and much easier to handle in curves and corners, the weight of the big blocks often causing them to ‘plow’ forward rather than hold onto the turns.

In terms of the big block C3s, expect to pay premiums to acquire them.  They have long commanded huge respect on the market and deliver gobs of power equating earth-shattering performance.  But again, keep in mind, they tend to have a heavier driving feel than a small block, they tend to require a bit more driving skill to keep on the road when driving them aggressively.  And make no mistake, in spite of what Cobra owners will say, the big block Corvette is a tremendous contender against the world’s finest performance cars.

For 1978, Corvette ushered in a revised body style with a new glass back rear end treatment which required a great deal of unseen reengineering in the rear suspension and exhaust area.  Interior room was greatly increased, and the car gained an almost spacey style.  By this point though, the engine choices were limited to 350 CI V-8s, and for 1980, California emissions regulations would cause Chevrolet to offer only a 180 HP 5.0L V-8 in that state.  It was indeed a bleak time for performance, but Corvette gained an aerodynamic package which aided in downforce and directed air to the radiator to keep things cooler.  In this regard, handling greatly improved.  For 1982, the Cross-Fire Injection system would be installed on the Corvette providing a kind of hybrid carburetor-fuel injection intake, which was said to increase power, efficiency, and enhance emissions cleanliness.  Many lamented the system for a number of reasons, most notably that it was seemingly difficult to service, since it was largely sealed.  But, truth be told, the system didn’t normally need servicing or adjusting, and if it did, troubles could largely be placed at the feet of the computer module that controlled it.

 

C3 Corvette Parts

One of the beautiful things about most any Corvette, especially the C3, is parts availability.  There are any number of vendors and service companies available across the country who have multitudes of parts ranging from engine parts to specialized bits like the Crossfire Injection System to body parts and much, much more.  Even the interior parts and upholstery are largely available.  They are not normally inexpensive, but still excruciatingly less costly than parts for many other world class sportscars.

C3 Corvette Restoration

If you’re not the type of person who wants to do it themselves, rest assured, there are a number of very skilled and knowledgeable shops around that specialize in Corvette restoration.  Just keep in mind what you want to do with the car when you’re done – preserve and show it, or drive it once in a while, or drive it daily.  This will help you and your chosen shop decide how best to restore your Corvette.

C3 Corvette Restoration Shops

It’s easy to get caught up with disreputable shops and sales people.  The best advice we’ve come across is to get involved with the local clubs, and talk to members about who they’ve used with success and who to avoid.  This can work the same way with parts vendors as well – find out from people who’ve dealt with vendors before and find out who’s worth the time and money.